A Bar with a Cause: Pole Pole

By Yasuhiro Shimizu

Nestled within the vibrant nightlife of Kanazawa’s Kata-machi district, Pole Pole emerges not merely as a bar but as a cultural nexus fostering international understanding and camaraderie. Behind the counter, Kenji Obata engages patrons in discussions that transcend the banal topics of weather or sports. "Japan," he asserts, "is becoming increasingly international across various dimensions, whether we embrace it or not. Kanazawa is certainly reflective of this trend, welcoming an influx of English teachers, international students, and business professionals from around the globe. We can no longer envision a society that does not deepen its coexistence and mutual understanding."

Since its inception in June 1989, Pole Pole has weathered economic downturns while achieving remarkable success, evolving into a melting pot that draws a diverse clientele, particularly on weekends. This eclectic bar buzzes with the dynamic energy of both foreign patrons and Japanese locals from various backgrounds.

The atmosphere at Pole Pole has garnered praise in travel literature, notably from The Lonely Planet, which describes it as “one of those legendary bars every self-respecting Japanese city must have.” Its ambiance, marked by a grungy charm and a floor strewn with peanut shells, resonates with the pulsating rhythms of reggae music, transporting visitors to a Caribbean-like haven.

Subtitled "The Equator Bar," the term "Pole Pole," which translates to "slowly, slowly" in an indigenous Kenyan dialect, encapsulates Obata’s vision for his establishment. "Many foreign students, particularly from developing nations, struggle to adapt to our frenetic lifestyle," he explains. "I aspired to create a space where they can unwind and feel at home. Equally, I hope to offer Japanese patrons a respite from their demanding work lives."

This vision was born from Obata's extensive experiences abroad. Growing up in Kanazawa and planning to marry, Obata faced the dissolution of a seven-year romance, plunging him into personal turmoil and professional uncertainty. His path took a transformative turn when he decided to immerse himself in different cultures, traveling to 65 countries across South America, Asia, and Africa. "In South America," he reflects, "I was struck by the resilience of the people. Despite their material challenges, they exhibited a zest for life that seemed absent in Japan, where we enjoy considerable wealth."

Among the myriad places he visited, Bali left an indelible mark on him. "There, I felt an overwhelming sense of déjà vu," he recalls. "For the first time, I truly identified as an Asian. Regardless of our affluence, we are, at our core, Asians."

Inspired by the warmth and hospitality he received during his travels, Obata sought to extend that same kindness to international visitors in Kanazawa. "Imagine entering a bar in a foreign country and being greeted with genuine warmth. Such encounters shape our perceptions of nations and their people," he notes, underscoring the ethos that drove him to establish Pole Pole—a welcoming space for individuals of all nationalities.

Yet, the journey has not been without its challenges. Obata has encountered moments of discomfort stemming from some Japanese patrons’ interactions with foreigners. He observes a disheartening persistence of stereotypes that pigeonhole non-Japanese individuals. "Regrettably, there remains a narrow mindset that equates nationality with hair color and skin tone," he laments, recounting an incident where a Japanese woman mistakenly assumed an Asian-American man was Japanese, despite his clear assertions to the contrary.

Obata advocates for cross-cultural exchanges as a remedy for these misunderstandings. He envisions Pole Pole as a venue not just for socializing, but a catalyst for broader international understanding. To this end, he actively encourages Japanese patrons to broaden their horizons. "The best way for Japanese individuals to learn about other cultures is by venturing abroad," he asserts. Through entertainment and the opportunity to engage with diverse individuals, Obata aims to inspire greater curiosity and appreciation among his clientele.

He practices what he preaches by organizing biannual trips to Bali for his staff and customers. "It is essential for our staff to have firsthand experiences abroad," he emphasizes, believing that these encounters enable them to relate more profoundly with patrons. “I am committed to ensuring that my team benefits from such enriching experiences."

Despite the acclaim and success he has achieved, Obata remains steadfast in his commitment to his foundational philosophy. "My goal is to contribute positively to Japanese society," he declares, reflecting a vision that extends beyond mere profitability, aiming to foster a more inclusive and interconnected community.